Just One of the Boys

 By B. Lee Cash

When it comes to women's fashion, there's an overstock of over-sexed styles. On assignment to find a cool fashion middle ground, Style Sessions talked to a long-time outfits expert, Allison Rothbart, formerly a buyer for Macy's and Bebe, and now a merchandiser at the San Francisco based Levi Strauss Co.  Here, Rothbart opens the doors to the men's department -- her specialty -- and shows us how to girlify guys' fashions so you look hot, sexy and comfortable the next time you go out.

"Think about the lingerie trend where women's clothes look like nighties," says Rothbart. "This look is the complete opposite.  It's a rebellion against the lacy, revealing, here's-my-body styles.  And the idea is to look like a girl in guy clothes. You'll feel cool and you won't have to worry about things hanging out because your tube top is falling down. This whole look starts with T-shirt layering."

Toughen Up in Layered T-shirts

Start with a fitted long-sleeved shirt in any color, and top with a short-sleeved tee, preferably one with a vintage logo or concert band. "I like old logos, like the old Coca-Cola logo or Peanuts, and you can get those at swap meets," says Rothbart.

Style Sessions Tip: "How do you make this look feminine?" asks Rothbart. "The trick is to make the pieces fit you; they need to be cut for your body. That doesn't mean tight -- we're trying to get away from that -- but the sleeves shouldn't be baggy and you should be able to tell you have boobs under it all. Otherwise you'll look like you're in a sack."

Try Dude-Style Denim
"There are two extremes when you're talking about denim," explains Rothbart. "Right now I like a more sophisticated look in a dark, clean denim. That's what they're showing for guys, and it's more sophisticated than the contrived look with the tints and holes and pre-fab whiskers."

Style Sessions Tip: "You can wear the same pair of jeans over and over and just change-up your top," says Rothbart. "That's how the boys do it. Guys have less than half the number of pants girls have, but they just change their shirt and their shoes, and it works."

Do the No-Bling Accessory Thing
"Leather cuffs are still hot, and I'm still really into a great, heavy leather belt with a good buckle," says Rothbart. "Add a hot belt to your jeans, and you've got a '70s rock or motorcycle look. It gives you an edge and it's sexy -- it's the easiest way to make a fashion statement."

Style Sessions Tip: "You don't want to look too retro," advises Rothbart. "Think of this as the wardrobe for your favorite, really cool aunt who lives in Los Angeles!"

Put Your Best Boot Forward
"I'm really liking cowboy boots right now, but not necessarily a traditional cowboy boot," says Rothbart." Guys wear a heavier shoe and it's a good balance, so try moving away from your pointy-toed shoes. Trends are going back toward a thicker shoe. There are short, slip-on boots and there are a lot of choices in heel height."

Rothbart also loves the vintage Vans. "When you want to be more playful when you go out, you can go for a pair of the classic checkered Vans. If those are too weird for you, you can visit the Vans site online and customize a pair in colors you love."

Tightey, Not Whitey
"Boy-inspired undies are so sexy!" says Rothbart. "The boy-cut panties available now leave so much more to the imagination." Rothbart also says ribbed tanks (commonly called "beater" tanks) are a forever staple on their own or layered under a tee so you don't show your midriff.

Style Sessions Total Look: "You have two options for makeup," says Rothbart. "Not all guys love makeup, so in your guy-inspired outfit, you can just do very minimal makeup. Or, to go with your hot rock 'n' roll look, try a severe smoky-eye with nude lips." It's very Velvet Underground-cool but also very now.

Oh, Boy! Let's Go Out!
You're ready to head out the door and meet up with your girls! "Don't forget a hot jacket," says Rothbart. "I love a simple-cut leather jacket. Taking any version of menswear jacket in a cut for your body always wins. And puffy down vests are great. If you want to feminize it, you can get it in white or another color with a fur collar.

Style Sessions Tip: "What's great about this stuff is you can mix and match it all to make it your own look," says Rothbart. "You can use what's already in your closet. If it's not in your closet, look in your boyfriend's!"